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Yesteryear

Saturday, August 17, 2013

August 17, 2013


           I was late getting underway, probably because I had to do repairs. The battery contacts on the eBike are so worn that each repair takes longer and requires more tools. I got it working but this may be the last time before I spring for a new assembly or jerry rig something. And the turn buzzer on the scooter gave out. The buzzer is an add-on of my own because the signal light clicker cannot be heard above 10 mph. It was a loose ground wire but I had to dismantle the entire headlamp and instrument panel to get at it.
           That’s why I posted this photo. Can you spot why every tool shown here was necessary to perform a wiring mend? The blackened wooden scrap at top center is an all-purpose sacrificial block, but everything else was needed because, of all the bad designs, the working part of the eBike is also the most fragile.

           Why is this work important? To me it means I put in another full day without exhaustion. The weight drop makes it so easy to move around so becoming active again is a breeze. I’ve hit a plateau where I’m losing inches but not pounds. I’m not surprised because this is the opposite of how I gained. I put on nearly fifty pounds without changing shape and [could] easily fit into my clothes. Then, kerpow!
           The authorities may swoop in on the local flea markets after a series of complaints in the local paper about welfare recipients running booths as a cash business. It’s true. The local swap meets all have a parking lot full of handicap stickers and the operators have been brazen about this crime for years. Strange, because it is so much work setting up and taking down the booths every weekend that it isn’t worth it if you calculate the hourly return. I further think they are foolish to do business under the table that involves and address and inventory. They will get rounded up.

           The trailer project is at a near standstill as I’ve decided to isolate the controls from the voltage on the motorcycle wiring. I did lay out some of the conduit and test a small section on my workdesk. Even with the LEDs, there was still a strain on the motorcycle electric, so the only feasible option is an independent power supply on the trailer that is controlled by the existing lighting. I’ll tell you what my plan is in today’s addendum.
           Yes, the Moose does close early on Sundays if it isn’t busy. I was worried a bit if you recall, it was closed the one time I drove out there on the little red scooter. Their biggest night is Saturday, the once per week I can’t get over there. The show is Karaoke so I could go but not if it means driving a motorcycle at night. Across town is okay, but not halfway across the county.

ADDENDUM
           The tow-behind stealth camper trailer is not a new concept for me. The cost and policies of motels makes boondocking attractive to all travelers who are somewhat less than millionaires, if only to free up the extra cash for daily adventures. In January of 2008 I had priced out parts even though back then I operated a station wagon. Travel costs and there’s been many a time I drove past something touristy I wanted to see because of the $35 price tag.
           The isolated electric wiring, how is this done? I don’t know, except for what I’ve independently learned from my hobby. I’ve built dozens of transistor switches that allowed a tiny voltage to control a much larger current. I found some $4 relays that draw less than a milliamp of power. Instead of a direct connection to the motorcycle, these relays go into a panel and use a fiftieth of a volt to control the wagon marker, tail, and brake lights (three relays total). Figure it out, the tail and marker lights are one circuit, the brake and turn signals are two circuits, left and right.
           Where does the power come from on the wagon? A deep discharge marine battery which will double the cost of the project. Regular car batteries don’t like repeated draining and recharging, while boat batteries are built for it. In fact, if you look closely at this example, you can see there are two sets of lugs. The second set is for a permanently attached recharging arrangement.

           Where does one get free power? From the sun. A lot of folks don’t understand solar power. They see the kits for sale but don’t know how to use them. It is quite simple. I’m looking at a kit from Harbor Freight, it has three panels and puts out 45 Watts of power. My thinking is that mounted on the flat roof of the trailer in the sun all day, they will both power the LEDs and easily charge a battery like the one shown here.
           The kit comes with a power distribution panel that puts out a steady 13.7 volts, exactly like your car running at speed. It looks like a small box with a bunch of outlets on the front to fit things like “cigarette lighter” plugs and USB cables. (Caution, these plugs are designed to operate only ONE item at a time.) Of course, one of the first things you would plug in is an inverter to give yourself 115V. The kit examined here is anemic and over-priced but I am drawn to Harbor Freights custom of clearly showing and describing everything in plain terms. Of course, I would only buy such a thing on sale.

           Having said that, the distribution panel is NOT a charge regulator. All it does is take the raw power from the panels and output it for usage. I intend to purchase a charge regulator separately as they only run about $15. This is the piece that tops off your battery and I’m surprised Harbor Freight doesn’t mention this. I can tell there are a few other corners cut but other than the required system (the brake, turn, and marker lights), I intend only to have some interior lights to read by.
           Moving away from the trailer to discuss the solar panel kit, I find the Harbor Freight model has some excellent tradeoffs. Three small panels is a good idea both for mounting, weight, and replacement if one goes bad. Some people will complain about anything but the planned voltage regulator should take care of what they are saying. This will be my first solar kit and will also be providing a learning experience at a reasonable price (the unit seems to be perpetually on sale for around $150). Keep returning here to learn the results.

           [Author’s note: the entire electrical system was not part of the original design and is thus not a budget item, which is a good thing since there is no restriction on how much I can spend. If the wagon proves comfortable enough, there is nothing to prevent the installation something better. I doubt 45 watts will power much more than the lighting system. I’m hoping a heavy duty battery will run my laptop and phone and with any luck, power a cooling or ventilation fan overnight without dying.
           So that everyone is clear on what I’m planning, I do NOT intend to connect the solar panels directly to any lights or appliances. Instead, the panel will do nothing except keep the batteries charged, and it is the batteries that will supply power. Most people that sell solar kits don’t discuss this option in detail.]


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